Gamusa & Textile value chain of Assam

Gamusa is basically a textile item which is used to wipe the body and face. But it is a piece of cloth, having multiple uses and meanings. Gamusa is an indispensable part of Assamese life and culture, intricately and intimately woven into the social fabric of Assam. It is not merely an item of multipurpose physical convenience. Its services extend far beyond the body into the sphere of mind and soul (Das N.D). It has come to acquire distinctive symbolic significance in the non-tribal plains Assamese socio cultural life. In many rural Assamese homes, weaving of Gamusa is a must even if the loom is not used for other textiles. The women also lavish considerable care and attention in weaving intricate designs along the cross borders of Gamusa. Gamusa is woven out of mostly 40s, 60s cotton. Occasionally 2/80, or 2/100s Cotton are also used. It is woven invariably in white with red as side and cross borders. Floral designs are woven as cross border at one end. The other end is finished with a plain border of the same colour. Use of colours other than red in the boarders is often noted in lower Assam. The cultural importance of Gamusa can easily be appreciated from the different names it has, one for each of its varied utilities.

The bihuwan and tangali Gamusa’s position is highest among the indigeneous fabrics of Assam. As the name implies behuwan derives its importance form its association with Bohag-Bihu (also called Rongali bihu), the most focal and lively of the festivals of Assam. It is the festival in which the onset of the Assamese New year, beginning in the month of Bohag (mid-April) is celebrated. On such occasion, respect for elders, affection for the young, love between young men and women blossom into ceremonial expression. That expression takes the form of a presentation of the bihuwan, however poor a family may be usually Gamusa is woven at home by the womenfolk. Weaving of Gamusa before the celebration of Bohag-bihu is special feature of Assamese culture. It is still a distinctive practice prevalent in the rural people of Assam. In the original concept, tangali represents the love of the mother for her warrior son and the wife for her husband going to the battle field. It was believed that this piece of cloth, where every thread is charged with potent love of a mother or a wife, would protect the son or the husband from dangers in the battlefield. At present tangali has acquired a new significance as another type of bihuwan (bihu gift). It graces the waist of the bihu dancer as a girdle. Gamusa is used as a turban cloth by men on such festive occasions with the flaps flaunting at the side. The Gamusa now-a-day has become an additional item of dress. On festive or ceremonial occasions, it is neatly folded and worn around the neck. Further, it is customary to offer the Gamusa to distinguished guests invited to the sociocultural and religious functions. The Gamusa is widely being used as an item of cultural identity of the plains Assamese. It would not be wrong to say that Gamusa has become a visible symbol of Assamese ethnic identity